In a world where adventure and connection with nature are often sought, the story of the UK's most northerly bothy, Burnmouth, offers a unique glimpse into the past and a renewed appreciation for remote shelters. Nestled on the Orkney island of Hoy, this historic crofthouse has undergone a remarkable transformation, and my recent experience spending a night there has left me with a deeper understanding of its significance.
The Bothy's Journey
Burnmouth, an independently owned and operated bothy, has a rich history dating back to the 1800s. Originally built when Rackwick, a tiny settlement, had a population of around 40, it witnessed the decline of the community over the years. By the 1950s, the Nicholson family was one of the last remaining residents, and the bothy began to show signs of wear and tear.
What makes this particularly fascinating is the resilience of these structures. Despite being exposed to the harsh elements, bothies like Burnmouth have stood the test of time, offering refuge to travelers and adventurers. However, the bothy's journey wasn't without challenges. Old photographs reveal a building in disrepair, with missing window frames and a door, yet its heather-thatched roof remained intact, a testament to the ingenuity of its builders.
A Restoration Story
In 1970, Burnmouth gained a new lease of life when it was used for a film adaptation, and subsequently renovated to accommodate campers and hill walkers. However, the elements took their toll, causing the mortar between stones to disintegrate and leading to damp and leaks inside. It was time for a much-needed renovation.
The Hoy Development Trust, with support from Orkney Islands Council, secured funding to restore Burnmouth to its former glory. The process was meticulous, involving lengthy discussions with the planning department to ensure the bothy's unique character was preserved. The decision to replace the original roof was a difficult one, but necessary to address the water damage.
Personally, I believe this restoration project is a testament to the value we place on our historical connections. By preserving these remote shelters, we honor the past and ensure future generations can experience a glimpse of rural life and the wilderness.
A Cozy Retreat
Today, Burnmouth feels like a cozy haven. The heather-thatched roof has been replaced with stone slabs, and the interior is warm and inviting. Martin Flett, vice-chairman of the Hoy Trust, expressed his satisfaction with the renovation, noting the improvement in the bothy's condition. Graham Brough, one of the contractors, emphasized that this restoration was done to last, ensuring Burnmouth's longevity.
The bothy's proximity to the iconic Old Man of Hoy, a popular climbing destination, makes it an attractive base for adventurers. Meeting Andrew and Lorraine Reilly, who revisited Rackwick after 30 years, highlighted the transformation of the bothy. Their amazement at the improvements, from the basic and draughty conditions of the past to the cozy and comfortable present, speaks volumes about the success of the renovation.
A Sense of Community
Hoy, with a population of around 400, has a strong sense of community, and Burnmouth plays a role in fostering connections. Davey Hutcheson, a long-time resident known as Hutch, expressed his appreciation for the bothy's restoration, believing it will bring new life to the area. Even the local sheep, outnumbering humans in Orkney, seem to enjoy the bothy's presence, roaming freely around it.
In my opinion, the bothy's appeal lies not only in its physical comfort but also in the sense of community and connection it fosters. It serves as a gathering place for travelers, climbers, and locals, creating a unique social dynamic in this remote setting.
A Night to Remember
Spending a night at Burnmouth was an unforgettable experience. Sharing the bothy with Sam Johnston, an ex-climbing instructor, added to the adventure. The absence of rodents, a common issue in bothies, made for a more pleasant stay. The newly installed stove, made from an old pier pile, provided a cozy atmosphere, and the private toilet with running water was a luxury.
What this overnight stay really suggests is the potential for bothies to offer a unique and comfortable experience in the wilderness. With proper maintenance and care, these shelters can provide a welcoming respite for those seeking adventure and a connection with nature.
In conclusion, the story of Burnmouth, the UK's most northerly bothy, is a testament to the power of restoration and community. It offers a glimpse into the past while providing a renewed sense of appreciation for these remote shelters. As we continue to explore and connect with nature, bothies like Burnmouth will undoubtedly play a vital role in our adventures.
